
How an Epoxy Garage Floor Job Runs
An epoxy garage floor starts with a walkthrough: we check for old sealers, cracks, oil and moisture, then write the scope. On install day the slab is ground and vacuumed, cracks and spalls are filled, the base coat and any flake go down, and a topcoat seals it. Foot traffic and parking follow the cure times printed for the product, which you get in writing.
Attached Garages: Keeping Dust and Odor Out
In an attached garage, the door into the house matters as much as the floor. We seal that door, run every grinder into a dust-collecting vacuum, and choose low-odor, low-solvent products where the garage shares air with living space, so the work stays in the garage.
Garage Slabs Poured Without a Vapor Retarder
The residential code allows a garage slab to be poured without a vapor retarder underneath (IRC R506.2.3), so many garage floors sit directly on stone and soil. Ground moisture can rise into that concrete, which is why a garage gets the same moisture test as a basement before we commit to a coating system.
Bartlett’s Garage Slab Rules: 5 Inches on Compacted Stone
The village’s codified rules call for a 5-inch garage slab on a 4-inch compacted stone base, with a pre-pour inspection before concrete is placed. Bartlett replaced its Title 9 building code by ordinance in June 2026, so whenever a job involves new concrete rather than a coating, we confirm the edition in force with the Building Division.
Moisture Testing a Garage Slab
We screen with an ASTM D4263 plastic sheet test, then use ASTM F1869 calcium chloride kits or ASTM F2170 in-situ relative humidity probes when the reading decides the system. The results go into the proposal, so the coating we recommend can be checked against the slab it is going on.
Coating a Slab Versus Replacing It
A slab with hairline cracks and light spalling can usually be repaired and coated. One that has heaved, settled badly or crumbles at the surface needs replacement first, and replacement means new concrete with its own permits and inspections, so we say which one your floor needs before quoting a coating over it.
What Brine and Rock Salt Do to Bare Concrete
Calcium chloride and rock salt deicers soak into bare concrete, and every freeze-thaw cycle works that brine against the surface until it scales and pops. A sealed, full-build coating keeps the salt water on top where it can be squeegeed out, instead of letting it reach the paste and aggregate below.
Cold-Weather Coating and the Unheated Garage
Epoxy needs a warm slab to cure, and the slab has to stay well above the dew point so condensation does not form under the wet film. In an unheated garage in deep winter that is rarely possible, so those floors are scheduled for spring, or coated with a cold-tolerant polyaspartic only when the slab readings allow it.
Hot Tire Pickup
Hot tire pickup happens when a warm tire parked on a thin or poorly bonded coating softens it and pulls it away in patches. A ground surface, a 100% solids epoxy base and a hard polyaspartic topcoat resist it, where a water-based kit film rolled over unground concrete often does not.
Box-Store Epoxy Kits Versus a Ground, Built-Up Floor
A store-bought kit is usually a thin water-based epoxy applied after an acid wash, leaving a few mils of coating on a weak surface. A professional system is ground to profile, built with high-solids material to a stated thickness and topcoated, which is why the two can look alike for a month and very different after one winter.
What an Epoxy Garage Floor Costs
Price moves with square footage, the condition of the slab, how much crack and spall repair it needs, whether an old coating has to be ground off, and the system chosen, from a single solid color to a full flake broadcast under a polyaspartic topcoat. We quote after the walkthrough with each of those items listed, rather than reading a per-foot number over the phone.